Monday, September 30, 2013

Refreshments at Buckingham Palace

So Tuesday morning we head downstairs for breakfast in the pub. I choose the breakfast buffet, and Beth has Eggs Benedict. The food is good and is included in the 160 GBP/night cost of the room.

Then we head for the bus stop to pick up the Hop On Hop Off Bus to go to Buckingham Palace to buy tickets for a tour of the state rooms on Thursday since the website said that there were none for today and only a few for tomorrow. The Palace is only open in August and September when the Royal Family are on holiday in Scotland. On my last two trips to London - in 1978 and 2000 - it was not open so it is my #1 priority.


It is a short bus trip, and we see people heading into one white tent to tour the Palace, another tent for groups, and another tent for tickets. To our surprise, there are tickets available for 10:45 this morning! So we grab them - it is 10:30. We get in line and just keep moving - at security they are checking rucksacks/backpacks - but I knew ahead of time to leave mine behind. I like to put my things in a backpack - it leaves my hands free - and there is plenty of space if I buy anything. I keep my money and cards in my pants pockets just in case anyone would grab or open my backpack. We also know no pictures inside the Palace. We are given an audioguide and are on our way.


I love history so I am somewhat familiar with British history. I find it interesting that King George III bought Buckingham House and used it as a country house outside the city of London. George III was king during the American Revolution. As I was later told, George was a good king and tried to prevent a war with the colonies; the British politicians were responsible for the war. Aren't they always!!


George IV had John Nash expand the country house - they eventually ran out of money. When William IV succeeded his brother George, he had the work completed but died before he could move in. So his niece Victoria was the first monarch to live in the palace.


Touring Buckingham Palace reminds me of the White House that Beth, GeeGee, and I had toured in October but on a much, much grander scale. The rooms and furnishings are fabulous, but eventually I tire of the gold and glitter. I am more interested in the family portraits hanging on the walls and their history. Queen Victoria married her children off to European and Russian royalty so there are family connections all over Europe - you need a scorecard to keep them all straight!


2012 was the Diamond Jubilee of Elizabeth II's coronation in 1952.   There are pictures and TV clips of the coronation set up in one of the state rooms. The coronation was very lavish, but also fascinating because of the centuries long tradition involved with coronations. It is also very interesting listening to older British women - who are also doing the tour - discussing members of the Royal Family and the extended family - like the Duke of Gloucester and the Duke of Kent. I stay close to listen to what they have to say - they seem to admire the Queen, but not too many like Charles - yet they all love William and Kate. Some of these women worked in some capacity for the extended royal family. I speak a few words to a couple of them, but the crowds prohibit any extended conversations - but I would have loved to hear more of what they had to say!


The tour ends in the Gardens of the palace where we are able to have refreshments. Due to the unusually warm weather, I choose royal ice cream and a bottle of water over tea. The ice cream comes from the royal cows at Windsor. The container has the crown on it.



Beth standing on steps of Buckingham Palace leading to the  garden.


This is the building above Beth's head.

We notice what looks like Canadian geese on the grass in the distance. I ask one of the Palace workers if they are indeed geese. He tells me that they are Canadian geese, and they are a blight. If we visitors were not there, he says the geese would be vigorously discouraged from resting on the property. So even Royals have their landscape problems!!


We stop in the gift shop for a short time and then continue through the gardens out the Bayswater Street gate. 


We walk up to Marble Arch and then to Speakers' Corner in Hyde Park before we find the Hop On Hop Off Bus Stop. 

Window on Bayswater Street

Wellington monument in Hyde Park.

We want to go to Kensington Palace. After what seems an exceptionally long wait, the blue bus comes along, and we hop on. There is no tour guide on the blue bus to announce the stops. I miscalculate, and we get off a street too soon. Fortunately, another bus comes right along, and we hop in for one more stop.



Kensington Palace was the site with all the flowers outside the above gates after Princess Diana died. Later, on the flight to Malaga, the man beside me tells me that he saw the flowers from a helicopter, and he will never forget the site. Many of the people with whom I talk say that the queen learned a much needed lesson from the outpouring of affection for Diana. They say the queen is popular again, but it took time to regain the public's respect.


Kensington Palace is much older than Buckingham Palace and is situated in a park that is accessible to the public. I am actually quite surprised that anyone could just walk up and walk inside the section opened to the public. William III and Mary bought the country home of the Earl of Nottingham before 1700.  Like Buckingham Palace, it was originally situated outside the city of London in what was then the country.  William suffered from asthma, and the damp weather closer to the Thames was unhealthy. The air around Kensington was healthier. So William had Christopher Wren renovate it.

I am interested in Kensington Palace because Protestant William of Orange defeated Catholic James II in Ireland at the battle of the Boyne. William III was married to Mary who was James II"s daughter. The defeat of James II brought the Protestant English domination of Ireland.

There is quite a difference here from Buckingham Palace. The part of Kensington Palace that is open to the public is simpler, less ornate, and obviously much, much older. It has displays about William III and especially about his wife - Queen Mary - who was also his first cousin.  She expanded the palace but unfortunately died at 32 of the smallpox. She had no surviving children so her sister Anne became queen when William died. There is information here about Anne as well.

There is a display of dresses belonging to Queen Elizabeth, her sister Princess Margaret, and Lady Diana. Beth and I are both struck by their tiny waists!! The clothes were very classy. And I love the Queen's fur coat!

I stop to talk for a while to one of the docents who has worked there for over 15 years. She said she is passionate about history, a colleague is passionate about art, and another colleague is passionate about mythology, so between them, they can answer almost any question about Kensington Palace.

She also told me that the palace has been open to the public since before 1900!! She said there is elaborate security because members of the royal family live here in the sections not opened to the public. William, Kate, and baby George are scheduled to return some time in October.

The main exhibit is about Queen Victoria who was born in Kensington Palace and who was the first monarch to live in Buckingham Palace. Of course, I was fascinated by the pictures of her children and relatives.

We stop for a very quick cold drink in the cafe. The gates are closing, and the guard tells us that the park gets dark quickly. 

 Beth in front of a statue of Queen Victoria commissioned by one of her daughters in front of Kensington Palace.


We get back to the bus stop only to find that the last stop is at Marble Arch. We need another way back to the hotel. Before we get to the stop, the driver just parks the bus on the street and announces he is making a pit stop - seems like he was gone a pretty long time while we all sat there!


So we get out at Marble Arch and decide to take the Tube so Beth can see what it is like. We find the Tube station and head in with the crowd because the area outside does not look very safe. We are in line for tickets when the only clerk leaves to fix a ticket machine which has eaten someone's money and given them no ticket or change. After waiting a while, we decide to take a taxi and head back outside. I hail a taxi who drops us at the hotel for 7 euro. 

When we get to our room, there is a message from my husband's cousin that her son works nearby and how about meeting him at 6 pm. Unfortunately, it is now after 8pm. So I send her an email - yes the hotel has free wifi -  and we head off to grab some supper.

We walk around the block to a pub across from St. James tube station. We find a seat, and I get us a drink. Beth is surprised that we have to go up to the bar to order our meal. I have roast chicken, delicious potatoes, and perfect green bean; Beth has fish and chips, and the cook substituted cole slaw for her mushy peas. In my mind, there is nothing worse than mushy peas!! The waiter brings them over to the table. There is a French couple sitting near us who ordered chicken/steak and mushroom pies which look delicious. They don't speak English, and altho we don't speak but a smattering of French, we manage to exchange a few words.

By the time we get home, it is after 10. Time for my shower and bed - tomorrow it is the Changing of the Guard!



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