Tuesday, October 1, 2013

Nothing can beat Westminster Abbey!

We have a busy day ahead of us today so we do manage to eat breakfast at 8:30 and are heading for Westminster Abbey at 9:30. Another sunny, warm day - I am so surprised at this Indian summer here in London! I would much prefer cool and overcast weather! But people have told me that they had a warm to hot, dry summer once it finally arrived. Then there were a few days of rain, but that stopped the Sunday we left Logan. Monday the warm weather returned, and the forecast is for another couple of days of the same.

As we step out of the hotel and turn right onto Tothill Street, the steeple of Westminster Abbey is straight ahead of us.

Westminster Abbey above, and below is 
street sign on the building across the street.


Mailboxes have the royal seal for Queen Elizabeth. If and when she dies, mailboxes, litter bins, gates to the palaces, everything with the E II R will be replaced with the new king's initial. Imagine what that will cost!!

The Sanctuary was part of the Westminster Abbey complex and is located closest to our hotel. It is for sale now. I imagine that is where our hotel got its name - Sanctuary House Hotel.

Beth on right heading toward Westminster Abbey on the right and St. Margaret's Church on the left.

Due to unforeseen circumstances, Beth has to make a detour back to the hotel. I take the opportunity to pop into St. Margaret's Church which is part of the Abbey property. The Abbey is reserved for the Royal family while the gentry (as they would say in Ireland) attend St. Margaret's Church. I know Sir Winston Churchill was married here. I had read a lot about the Gilded Age when I was researching my Newport, Rhode Island ancestors. I know that some of the daughters of the newly rich Americans of that time were married off to impoverished titled Englishmen - the Americans thought they gained some prestige, and the English gained a wealthy dowry to help keep up their estates. Downton Abbey is based on this. 

St. Margaret's Church is also famous for its blue sundials.

I have read about Winston Churchill, his father Lord Randolph Churchill, and his mother Jenny Jerome. Her father was "The King of Wall Street" Leonard Jerome who was involved in the stock market and in developing the railroads; he was a partner of Cornelius Vanderbilt in different enterprises. He married his three daughters off to Englishmen who then acquired the daughters' fortunes.

St. Margaret's was built in the 15th century by the monks of Westminster Abbey - which at the time was a Catholic abbey - for the local people who were disturbing the monks worshipping in the Abbey. You can feel the history when you walk in the door. And you walk on history because people are buried beneath the floor - you walk on their gravestones which make up the floor. The carvings and statues are fabulous. I wish I had more time here to sit in a bench and take it all in, but I don't want to miss Beth. So a quick adieu to this beautiful church.

As Beth walked up to the entrance to Westminster Abbey, I was struck by the sign warning that pickpockets will be prosecuted. We had seen the same type of sign at the Changing of the Guard. 

Doors where we went through security and entered the abbey.
No, that is not Beth near the grass, but the view of the Abbey toward Tothill Street.

I had thought that St. Margaret's Church was fabulous, but words cannot describe the historical magnificence of this abbey! I can't fathom the age of places in Europe. Boston is one of the older cities in the USA, but is only a few hundred years old. I cannot grasp that this building was started by King Edward the Confessor, one of the last Anglo-Saxon kings, back in the mid 11th century!

We missed the Verger tour at 10 so decide to wait for the 10:30 tour. I had read that the Verger tour was the only way to see the tomb of Edward the Confessor so I really was hoping to take it.  I guess a Verger is someone who helps with the care of the church and helps with the ceremonies. Our Verger leads us through the highlights of the Abbey. He takes us up to Edward the Confessor's tomb - he died in 1066 just before William the Conqueror won the Battle of Hastings, and the Normans took control of Ireland.

Henry V is also buried here - behind Edward. A new series on PBS about 4 of William Shakespeare's plays started the Friday before I left for London. Jeremy Irons is playing Henry V, but I won't be home to see it. The view from this area down along the Abbey is amazing.

We see the chapel where Elizabeth I and her sister Mary are buried. And across from them is a chapel with Mary, Queen of Scots.

We see the memorial to FDR about whom I have also read a great deal, but I missed the memorial to Winston Churchill. We see Poet's corner with the statue of William Shakespeare, plaques for the Bronte sisters, Jane Austen, Charles Dickens among others.

We see the Coronation Chair - it looks just like an old wooden chair but is centuries old and has so much tradition attached to it! We saw pictures of young Queen Victoria sitting in it when we visited Kensington Palace.  We walk in the footsteps of Queen Elizabeth and the other monarchs before her to the altar where the coronation takes place. We saw the old TV clips of Elizabeth's coronation at Buckingham Palace where we also saw her anointing gown and coronation robe. It all fits into place here.

I hate to leave. There is so much to see that it would take a week, but we saw the highlights. We stop in the gift shop for a few purchases. 

We had planned to go to the Churchill War Rooms next and then the Tower of London. But it is after 1:30 pm, and I don't think we have enough time to do both. So we buy an ice cream cone and sit in Parliament Square and watch the people go by for a few minutes. 


David Lloyd George was prime minster when the Anglo-Irish Treaty was negotiated and signed ending the Irish War of Independence but causing an Irish Civil War.


Before Winston Churchill led the United Kingdom through WWII, he was one of the negotiators of the Anglo-Irish Treaty. His father, Lord Randolph Churchill, had opposed Home Rule for Ireland.




Then we head for the Westminster Pier for a ferry to Tower Pier. There is something about being on or near water - whether a river, pond, lake, or ocean. It was a great day for a ride down the Thames.




We just miss the last Beefeater tour so we head straight for the Crown Jewels. I have climbed through the towers twice before but have never seen the jewels. So that is our first stop. I am surprised at how small some of the crowns are. But they are fabulous. And the size of some of the diamonds in those crowns!! they must be very heavy.

This building houses the Crown Jewels.

Guarding the Crown Jewels.

We poke around the grounds. We listen to a Beefeater talk about Nazi Rudolph Hess being held prisoner here before being returned to Germany to stand trial at Nuremberg.

No, they aren't taking Beth prisoner!


I am sitting outside people watching as Beth shops for some souvenirs. The drawbridge is raised to allow several large ships to pass down the River Thames. I am thinking about the last time I was here with my kids. We lost JB, my youngest, in the tower of London. I don't think he was in middle school yet. Mairead and I were in line for the Crown Jewels while Mike and JB were climbing the walls. JB went out an exit and couldn't get back in. Not such a great mother!!

We catch the 5:30 pm ferry back to Westminster - our last ride on the Thames. We are feeling very sad to be leaving in the morning. There is so much history in just this one city!!


I stop at the pancake/crepe vendor at Westminster Bridge and have a crepe with strawberry jam for Mairead.  Then we head toward the hotel to meet Patrick at 6:30. A last look at Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Parliament Square.

We drop our things in the room and head down to the pub, but it is jam packed with business men and women - and it is very noisy. So we wait outside for Patrick - my husband's first cousin is Helen Rogers, and Patrick is her son. He arrives from work near St. James Park, and we go into the Blue Boar next door which is a little more quiet. We have a very nice visit with Patrick. I think it is always nice when you travel to meet a local contact. We have a drink with Patrick who then heads off to supper with his girlfriend. We head off to pack our bags. Helen calls for a chat - she is very good to call me periodically  - I think it is important for families to stay in touch.

This is the end of our stay in London. We take a cab to Gatwick Airport on Friday morning at 6:30. That is an interesting drive - we are able to see some of the outskirts of London.

We go through security and board our plane. Malaga, here we come!

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