Our flight from Thessaloniki to Istanbul was not until 9:05 pm. This morning Tina contacted the landlord to see if we could extend our stay - we were able to stay until 6pm. So we lounged around for a while then we headed out for coffee and then something to eat.
Graffiti outside our apartment building.
Our doorway.
Aegean Sea in background top left.
Violeta and MEM
Tina and JB had arranged for a driver to take us to the airport. He dropped us at one end of the airport then we had to walk to the other to check in. The flight to Constantinople wasn't too long - we arrived just before 11pm. After getting our bags, we decided to check our large bags and only take small bags with us to the hotel. Then we followed the directions the hotel had sent to find the meeting point for the hotel shuttle. Luckily the left luggage area was beside the exit to the meeting point. We were all surprised at the crowd of people waiting for shuttles. A guy told us to hold on so we waited 20 minutes or so then the guy led us to another spot where we boarded a mini bus, and we were off. It was a disappointing drive because of the dark - we could see nothing but lights in the distance. It was another surprise when we arrived at the "hotel" - it was someone's home converted into a "hotel." We went down a couple of stone steps to the entrance - the owner seemed very nice - quite talkative - he was trying to sell us on an excursion of the Bosporus Strait. He finally took us to our apartment - some of us took the elevator - the others went up the stone steps. Surprise again! Our apartment was 2 bedrooms and a small "foyer" that separated the bedrooms! No sitting area but each room had a bathroom and a TV. JB And Tina took the room with a double bed - Violeta and I took the 2 single beds in the other room. I took a fast shower and followed the rest into bed. It was sunny the next morning. I looked out the bedroom window and saw a huge round metal container which holds the house's water! Not very scenic! We went downstairs for breakfast. One room had the food - there was a refrigerator in the room and the countertops had various breakfast items - bread and pastries, cornflakes, eggs, deli meat, fruit, coffee, tea, yogurt drink, and juices. There were some Turkish dishes as well - I don't know what they were. Once you got your food then you passed by the kitchen to 2 small rooms set up with a couple of tables. Everything was compact because, as I said, it was someone's home. I wanted to take some pictures, but from what I've learned about the culture, I thought the owners were probably very private people so decided to restrain myself.
When we went outside, we could see that the houses in the neighborhood were attached and almost every house on the street had a sign for a hotel. There was very little parking at any house. The streets again were on a hill and were very twisty. There were locals and tourists walking by up and down, day and night. It might not have been a 4 star hotel - or even a 3 star - but it was a very interesting site. And Violeta was happy because there were a table and chairs outside for her to have a cigarette. And it was quite interesting sitting out there with her.
We headed down the street then up another street and kept climbing - we passed one small grocery store and a few small shops selling luggage, bags, all kinds of things - there was a pottery store at the next corner - around another corner was a sign for a bazaar but we headed left up to the Hippodrome - this is the site where the Roman Hippodrome was built in 203 AD. It was expanded and upgraded by several emperors including Constantine the Great in the 4th century to show the importance of this city Byzantium - Constantine also changed the name of the city to Constantinople. 2 and 4 wheeled chariot races took place here - the Hippodrome could hold 100,000 spectators. It is a park now with a couple of obelisks and other monuments as well as benches everywhere. On one side there were a couple of shops; on the other was a mosque behind fences - it was closed for repairs. At first I was disappointed because I thought it was the Blue Mosque but it was located beside the Blue Mosque.
The Obelisk of Theodosius was originally built in Egypt by a pharaoh between 1479-1425 BC! Constantine the Great ordered it to be brought to Constantinople in 357 to commemorate his 20 years on the throne. The Obelisk made it to Alexandria where it remained until 390 when succeeding Emperor Theodosius finally had it transported to the Hippodrome. The ages of churches, mosques, buildings, monuments take my breath away - everywhere we have been!
South face of the pedestal shows the Emperor and his court. Imagine that detail surviving all these years! There were 3 other sides with this kind of details.
This German Fountain on the hippodrome commemorates German Kaiser Wilhelm II's visit to Istanbul in 1898. The fountain was constructed in Germany and transported to Constantinople. The German Kaiser was a grandson of Britain's Queen Victoria. I have read a lot about the British royal family and its branches - my head spins trying to keep them all straight - I gave up and made a chart to keep track of who is who! But Wilhelm was a very interesting character - not necessarily in a good way - and one who helped lead the world into WWI.
Hajia Sophia Grand Mosque was the last of 3 churches to be built on this site by the Eastern Roman Empire - it was completed in 537 AD. These 3 churches served as a Greek Orthodox Church from 360 to 1453 when the Ottomans captured the city and turned it into a mosque. The Turkish government, after gaining independence from the Ottomans, turned it into a museum in 1935 then turned it into a mosque again in 2020.
Sultan Ahmed Mosque or the Blue Mosque built between 1609 and 1617 on the site of the former Hippodrome's bleachers and the imperial box where the Emperor sat during events. The mosque was very expensive to build - mosques were usually built by the spoils of war but Ahmed I had not been involved in any war. It was also built on the palaces of several Ottoman viziers - high ranking Ottoman officials - so it was costly to take possession of their property to build the mosque. At one point Islamic scholars and legal professionals even forbade Muslims to worship there. It is still a popular active mosque and a huge tourist attraction.
I was surprised and a little disappointed that both mosques were not as massive as I had expected. Don't get me wrong - they were both very impressive - just not as massive. I think I expected them to be situated on their own - instead there are all kinds of buildings surrounding them and blocking them from view. The small area packs a punch.
There were long lines to enter both the Hagia Sofia (25 euro entrance fee) and the Blue Mosque. No one besides me seemed very interested in standing in line to see them. I didn't want the others to have to hang around while I went in to see them. Instead JB or Tina suggested we take the Hop On, Hop Off bus tour of Istanbul - there was a stop closeby so we all agreed. Again we had a 45 minute wait for the next bus so we decided to get coffee.
We stopped at this cafe at the Hurrem Sultan Haman for coffee while we waited - Tina is on the right above. A hamam is a Turkish bath where there is a ritual for a worker to take the client through a series of steps including washing, scrubbing, massaging. Hurrem Sultan Hamam is now a luxury historical hamam located between the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia Museum.
This Turkish bath was originally built for Hurrem Sultan, the legendary wife of Sultan Suleyman the Magnificent, in 1556. It was built where the ancient public baths of Zeuxippus (son of Apollo) used to stand and where the Temple of Zeus stood before that. While we were having coffee, we saw a couple of women but many men entering the haman - there are separate entrances for men and women.
Suddenly the different mosques began the call to prayer - there are so many mosques in the area that it was quite a cacophony of songs. There were so many minarets that we couldn't distinguish where the calls were coming from. (Mosques can have a varying number of minarets - tall towers with balconies.)
Just a quick note - historically minarets' balconies were used by the mosque’s muezzins (men whose job was to call Muslims to prayer) to call believers to prayer and announce the central tenet of the Islamic faith to non-believers. Today, however, a muezzin (or imam/religious leader) typically recites the call into a microphone in the main prayer hall, where it is then broadcast through loudspeakers installed on the minarets.
Muslims are called to prayer 5 times daily:
- Fajr Dawn (the first appearance of light on the eastern horizon).
- Zuhr (aka Dhuhr) When the sun begins to descend after reaching its highest point in the sky. The most important prayer of the week, Friday prayer, occurs at this time.
- Asr - When the sun reaches the midpoint of its descent, marking the point between zuhr and maghrib.
- Maghrib Sunset. Keep in mind, since an Islamic day starts at sunset, this is is technically the first prayer of the day.
- Isha - When the sun’s light disappears from the western sky (the onset of nighttime).
The Muezzin sings the following:
God is the greatest (Allahu akbar); sung four times.
I testify that there is no God but Allah (Ashhadu anna la ila ill Allah); sung twice.
I testify that Mohammed is God’s Prophet (Ashhadu anna Muhammadan rasul Allah); sung twice.
Come to prayer (Hayya alas salah); sung twice.
Come to security/salvation (Hayya alal falah); sung twice.
God is the greatest (Allahu akbar); sung twice.
There is no God but Allah (La ilah ill Allah); sung once.
Another line is sometimes added to the first prayer of the day (first light fajr):
Prayer is better than sleep (Assalatu khayrum minan naum); sung twice.
I had borrowed an audio book from Falmouth Public Library sometime after 9/11 to learn more about Islam - in particular because my youngest son John was friends with a Muslim - they were in middle school - after 9/11 his friend was being harassed and blamed for the attack. I was very proud when JB stood up for his friend. This made me want to learn more about Islam. There was a Muslim IT guy that worked with me at Tufts Health Plan - he used to pull out his prayer rug in his cubicle and put it on the floor facing Mecca. He would bow, kneel and prostrate himself while reciting prayers from the Quran/Koran. He explained the praying ritual and later Ramadan to me as well. When I asked if anyone hassled him about praying in his cubicle, he said no one at work bothered him.
Christianity, Islam and Judaism all claim to originate from Abraham and all have many of the same beliefs. It is so sad that there is so much fear, hate, and distrust between these religions when so many of their beliefs are the same.
Sweet treats! So many shops with delicious treats!
The following are pictures from the bus tour. Istanbul is a massive city - I couldn't get over the hordes of people! Every place is packed with every race, creed, and color of people.
A Greek ruler Byzas founded a settlement on the banks of the Bosphorus Strait in 657 BC. The Bosphorus Sea linked The Black Sea with the Mediterranean Sea. Thanks to its natural harbor Byzantium thrived as a port city. Different groups - eg, Macedonians, Persians, Athenians, and Spartans - attempted to gain control of the city. But Roman Emperor Septimus Severus destroyed the city around 196 AD and rebuilt it including the Hippodrome, the Baths of Zeusippus, and the city walls. Roman Emperor Constantine I decided to make Byzantium his empire's capital city around 324 AD.
Constantine named the city Constantinople after himself - he also declared that it should observe Christianity and adopt Greek as the primary language despite being a melting pot of races and cultures.
Roman Emperor Justinian I, who ruled in the 6th century, made extensive renovations to the city. He was the Emperor who established a uniform code of laws - Justinian Code of Law - which was a blueprint for civilizations to come. Likewise, Roman Emperor Basil I in the 9th century launched what became the two-century-long Macedonian dynasty. Sultan Mehmed II conquered Constantinople in 1453 ending the Roman Empire - the Ottomans kept control until the 20th century.
We passed all kinds of shops selling candies, pastries, nuts, all kinds of foods. And every shop was very busy. There were crowds of people up and down every street, in every alley and plazas - where did they all come from?
Difficult to see the train engine in the front yard.
Down along the seafront.
There are all kinds of ferries along the Bosphorus.
Galata Bridge connects old Istanbul with the modern section of Istanbul.
People are fishing off of Galata Bridge all hours of the day - I think the audio guide said that they fish for mackerel and sardines. Below the walkway are restaurants and shops.
Approaching the Karakoy section of Istanbul - the more modern area.
There are ATMs lined up everywhere - some give you Turkish money, some give you Euros.
Cafes located at the base of this building.
The sign says:
"Koroclu Tripe & Restaurant
We've all had a share in the soup since 1988"
per Google Translate
Electric scooters are big business especially in Istanbul and Greece - they are a great way to get around with all the traffic back-ups.
One of many outdoor cafes with a mosque in background.
Another mosque with its accompanying buildings. Most mosques are not stand alone buildings - they are a complex with hamams (Turkish bath houses,) madrasahs (Islamic schools,) public kitchens to feed the poor, gardens, sometimes mausoleums as well as bazaars, and caravansari (an inn to put up travelers and merchants as well as their horses.) In the course I took the professor explained that the mosque and its surrounding complex were pretty self sufficient.
Sign for Galataport - Galata was/is the western cosmopolitan area of Istanbul - it was controlled by Venice and Genoa at one point. Foreign embassies were located here - they established their own schools, and Turkish nobles sent their children there as well. The Ottoman Army had suffered defeats by European armies so the sultan was trying to modernize the Ottoman Empire at this time and adopt more westernized customs, education, fashion, military operations.
Kilic Ali Pasha Mosque was built in the late 16th century for an Ottoman admiral - it was built on the Bosphorus but the seafront has since been filled in so now it is surrounded by other buildings.
More buildings in the complex.
I wish I knew what all these buildings are.
Kilic Ali Pasha Mosque Complex - Another mosque in a different district of Istanbul. I don't think I saw any church spires unlike Macedonia where they were everywhere.
Dolmabahce Palace, the largest palace in Turkey is Istanbul’s first European-style palace, built between 1843 and 1856 by SultanAbdulmecid I in an attempt to modernize Istanbul, at a cost of 5 million Ottoman gold pounds—the equivalent of 35 tons of gold. Dolmabahce Palace consists of sixteen separate sections besides the main structure. These sections include the palace stables, mills, pharmacies, kitchens, aviaries, glass shop, foundry, patisserie shop. The Palace received its central heating and electrical systems during the years 1910 - 1912. In the Palace there are 285 rooms, 46 halls, 6 Hamams (Turkish baths) and 68 toilets. In the Sultan’s private living quarters, there is a magnificent Hamam furnished with marble from Egypt. It is said that some 14 tons of gold and at least 6 tons of silver were used in interior decorations. During traditional holy day celebrations the golden throne used to be brought in to the hall and the Sultan received notables and diplomatic corps on this throne.
The Harem (the section of the palace where the Sultan's wife, concubines and female servants lived) was designed in this palace as a separate section under the same roof instead of the traditional seperate building. The Harem section makes up two thirds of Dolmabahce Palace. Passage to the Harem is through corridors with iron gates and heavy timber doors, reminiscent of the traditional segregation. The bedrooms of the Sultan, his wives, concubines, sons and daughters, and study and lounge rooms are all in this section.
I remember learning how the Sultans were trying to modernize the Ottoman Empire - it eventually led to demolishing the Janissaries, the household guards of the Sultans, who opposed all the changes. Today all sections and units of Dolmabahce Palace are restored and opened to visitors.
Seaside plaza where concerts and other events are held.
More views from the bus.
Bosphorus Strait in background.
As part of the only passage between the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, the Bosporus has always been of great importance from a commercial and military point of view. The strategic significance of the Strait was one of the factors in the decision of the Roman Emperor Constantine the Great to found his new capital, Constantinople, there in AD 330. This then became the capital of the Eastern Roman Empire.
The Bosphorus Strait is a major sea access route for numerous countries, including Russia and Ukraine. Control over it has been an objective of a number of conflicts in modern history, notably the Russo-Turkish War (1877–78), as well as of the attack of the Allied Powers on the Dardanelles during the 1915 Battle of Gallipoli in the course of World War I. In 2022 during the Russian invasion of Ukraine the Bosporus' importance as a route by which grain reached the world was thrown into turmoil.
Suspension bridge across the Bosphorus.
Electric scooters are everywhere in Istanbul!
View from suspension bridge - I was surprised to see the swimming pool.
View from the bridge - I think that white building is the Dolmabahce Palace.
Turkish flag flying from the hill.
Ortakoy district of Istanbul
Shop selling clams
Istanbul was the center of learning, culture and the arts during Western Europe's Dark Ages.
The Sultans had invited artists, scholars, educators, philosophers, and more to come to Istanbul.
I took this picture to show the clothes drying outside - it didn't come out too well. But every sunny day there are clothes hanging out of apartment balconies.
A new shopping center being built.
Shops, pedestrians, motorcycles.
Shops and traffic.
More people, more motorcycles.
Passing the Spice Bazaar.
I think this mosque may be the Rustem Pasha Mosque - it was built in the mid 16th century by Rustem Pasha who was a Grand Vizier (2nd in command after the Sultan) - he was married to Mihrimah Sultan, daughter of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent and his wife Hurrem Sultan (we just saw the Hurren Sultan Hamam/Baths where we had coffee while waiting for the Istanbul Hop On, Hop Off bus.
A tower was built in the Galata section of Istanbul during the Byzantine Empire by Emperor Justinian I - it was destroyed by the Crusaders during the Sack of Constantinople in 1204. Genoa established a colony here in 1267 surrounded by walls. They built a watch tower at the highest point of this district in 1348 - it was the highest structure in Istanbul. The Ottomans conquered the city in 1453 and abolished the colony from Genoa. The tower was then used as a prison. Most of the walls were torn down in the 19th century. It is now a museum.
Ancient walls being restored along the seaport on way back to the Hippodrome.
We got off the bus where we picked it up and started looking around for someplace to eat. As we walked by restaurants, waiters were running out trying to entice us to pick their restaurant. We decided on The Old House Terrace - we sat there on the left of the terrace.
I had the chicken stirfry - full of veggies and chunks of white meat. Quite nice.
A Turkish tea for dessert! I don't really like coffee - I'm used to my Jacob's instant coffee - so I never tried the Turkish coffee which is such a popular drink in Turkey and the Balkans. Violeta has her own little copper pot that she uses to boil her coffee and a set of the small coffee cups used to serve the coffee that she brought to Fort Myers. Remember one of her neighbors gave me a bag of Turkish coffee as a going away present. I gave it to Violeta.
We walked home after the dinner - up and down those twisty, winding streets. The streets here were just as uneven and cracked as everywhere else so I got a good look at the ground! We sat outside while Violeta had a cigarette then headed inside. Tomorrow is the last full day that we have! We decided to book the lunch cruise on the Bosphorus that the hotel offered because it provided a shuttle back and forth to the dock. We all had wanted to take a ferry or a cruise. So let's see what our last day of this adventure brings!