Tuesday, September 14, 2021

Northwest Pacific Coast Road Trip - Monday, September 13

So today we headed for the Olympic peninsula. With all the cancellations of ferries, I thought we should get there early - the Washington State Department of Transportation recommended arriving 30-45 minutes prior to boarding - I thought we should get there an hour early at the least. Our reservation was at 11:45 so we should plan to get there at 10:45. We had talked about getting up early and maybe taking a last look around before hitting the road, But when the alarms went off, we kept snoozing them. We did manage to finally rouse ourselves and head out. We stopped at the Donut House for a final donut - we would save them for tomorrow's breakfast. 

The drive to the ferry was back over some roads we had traveled on Sunday including Deception Pass - today there was only one side with a view as the other side was covered up for repair. We passed through Oak Harbor - Mairead ran in to get bagels at a place she had found online. Oak Harbor was a cute little town.


Historic Oak Harbor above and book store that was closed below.




We arrived at the Coupeville Ferry Terminal just as the 10:30 ferry was loading - there were long lines of standby vehicles - only a few got on. We were first in line for our ferry. They took a certain amount of the remaining standby vehicles and put them in line behind us. We had a hour or so to kill so we walked over to the "beach"/boat ramp. The beach was stony - no sand - a couple was throwing sticks into the water for their dogs to retrieve. Not sure I would want my dog in that water where the ferries dock and other boats pull in and out. We sat at a picnic table for a while enjoying the sunshine and salt air - a little cool from the ocean breeze.

Picture gives you an idea of what the beach is like - little sand - mostly stones.


Below is a link for a video of Coupville.

https://youtu.be/qo9I_ardHS0


When we landed in Port Townsend, we headed into the historic town center - this had buildings from the gilded age - 1880+. It was a cute little place - we turned around at the marina and headed west to Port Angeles. We were checking in at 3 pm at the AirBnB - the owner was leaving the door unlocked with the keys inside the door - so this put a little pressure on us to move along. We passed through some lovely places - Squemish in particular.


Below is a link for Port Townsend.

https://youtu.be/YIGD9IYqyOs




Mairead had found a diner online where we could have lunch. I loved it as soon as I saw it!! It was retro 50s with the old fashioned booths, the stools at the counter, the checked curtains, pictures of Elvis and other legends - it was the real deal. I immediately thought of my brother Johnny and Vicky who would love this place too. They love diners and modern antiques - I know they would have picked this diner if they were here. The food was typical diner food - plain cooking and good quality. They have a deal where you have your card punched each time you come in, and after the 10th meal you get a free meal. The place was busy at 1:30 with a lot of regulars. A woman in a booth near us was having lunch and had a meal to go as well. I had a BLT with a cup of beef barley soup - Mairead went for a breakfast - corned beef hash and eggs. The soup was homemade and delicious. The corned beef was ground on site. It was a fun place and a great first stop on the Olympic peninsula.





Below is a link for a video of the inside of the diner.

https://youtu.be/-GPTi-KRIyk


We were in great spirits when we left the diner - looking forward to new adventures. We found our AirBnB - what did we ever do without WAZE or Google maps? It is up a hill - there is a beautiful view of the ocean between the trees. We were on the second floor with 2 bedrooms - I got the ensuite one. There was a wrap-around deck. I sat outside for a while until the homeowner started working below me with a drill. 

Mairead wanted to take a drive to Rialto Beach - I was a little hesitant because we would be backtracking the same route tomorrow - but we had a long day planned for tomorrow so we headed out. It was well worth it when we got there. We could hear the waves crashing and feel the ocean mist before we could see anything. There were huge old trees or logs all along the coast that had been tossed up by the sea - I don't know where they came from - people were sitting on them watching the sea. It was an almost overpowering experience. We could see and hear huge waves building up and then pounding down on top of themselves - the brown sand mixed up into each wave. We could smell the sea air as well as the rotting seaweed left on shore by the waves - the seaweed was huge - it looked like long tangled tentacles. We could feel the mist from the ocean along with the sea breeze - I could taste salt when I licked my lips. People were standing at water's edge when suddenly a huge wave crashed down and the tide covered their shoes and pants. One fellow was having a great time skipping stones. The stones were all sizes - mostly oblong and so smooth they glided along the surface of the water.  It was quite an experience just sitting and watching the power, the force and the energy of the ocean - never to be tamed. It was very humbling. I could have sat there for hours but we decided to head back at 7 pm - it was over an hour's drive and I didn't want to be driving narrow twisting roads for too long in the dark.

Mairead in front of logs thrown up on land by waves - this is before you see the beach.


Logs on the beach - this is where I was sitting.


Below is a link to a Rosario beach video.

https://youtu.be/pBhooi4JpR8







This was huge! and stunk!






Below is a link to a video of waves crashing on Rosario beach.

https://youtu.be/L4kO1oof-wQ


We made a quick stop at Walmart in Port Angeles - Mairead picked up some grapes, clementines, and water for the drive tomorrow - the area is pretty remote so we made sure we had the essentials.

We headed back to the AirBnB and threw in a wash - Mairead retired to her room while I had tea on the comfortable sofa - I started typing this. I went to bed about 11. A text from Mike woke me at 12:13 am - his flight home was just canceled - they had been sitting on the plane since 9:30 - something wrong in the cockpit. He was waiting to see what was up.











Northwest Pacific Coast Road Trip - Sunday, September 12

So Danno and Amanda had suggested going to Seattle to visit Mairead over Columbus Day weekend - we went last year 2020 at the same time - Covid was raging but no one was traveling so we felt pretty safe.  This year the Delta variant is devastating the country but especially states with low vaccination rates. Our vaccines are supposed to be effective for at least 6 months so we would be cutting it close. 

When I told Mairead that we would be visiting, she told me to hold on - that she was planning to move back east. She had moved to Seattle the end of August 2019 - then the pandemic hit in February. Because she was working and living in a group home with developmentally delayed adults, Covid restrictions were very tight. She could not use any type of public transportation including Lyft/Uber, she could not go into any shops, at one point she could not drive in a car unless the windows were open no mater what the weather and she had a mask on. Because she was living in the house, she was wearing a mask 24/7 and she had no time away from the job - she would be talking to me on her day off and a resident would come into the room looking for her. Restrictions were slow to lift and now with the Delta variant, some are resuming.

So I was not too surprised when Mairead told me that she needed a change. She finally decided to leave her position on Thursday, September 9 and wanted to do a little traveling before heading back east. Since she does not drive, I would be the driver. She charted out the route. She told me to be there Saturday, September 11 so we could leave on Sunday, September 12.  September 11 is my son John and his wife Tina's anniversary - it was also my father's birthday - and now it is a day for national remembrance.

Mike had not been to Seattle so he decided to come for the weekend. We flew out Thursday, September 9 and arrived at 9 pm. We picked up a car - I had booked a Toyota Camry but was told there was none available - so they gave us a white BMW at the same price. Sounds like a great deal? Well, the extra insurance is much higher than on a Camry. And unfortunately I hate BMWs - no offense to Danno who loves his. They are too low to the ground, and I have trouble getting in and out. Mike didn't like driving it either, but was the chauffeur. 

We did the touristy things on Saturday and Sunday morning - actually I took him to the places I have been to - Pike Place Market, the waterfront with the Ferris wheel, Discovery Park, the Museum of Pop Culture, Kerry Park. Mike couldn't get over all the homeless in downtown Seattle. We headed back to Springhill Suites in Downtown/Lake Union in the afternoon. We were both tired. Mike explored on his own - I didn't mind staying put. He brought supper home at some point.

On Saturday we were up early. We found a parking space on the street and walked to Pike Place Market. I sat outside overlooking the harbor while Mike looked around - this was my 3rd trip to the market. We got grilled cheese sandwiches at Beecher's Homemade Cheese where we saw them make cheese in two huge vats in the window - it is across the street from the market. We took them back to the outside deck at the market and ate there.  We walked back to the car and headed to Volunteer Park, we stopped by to say hello to Mairead then headed to the Fremont Troll. We went back to the hotel - Mike couldn't get over all the traffic - and patient Mike isn't. We could see route 5 from our hotel - there was traffic from morning till 8 at night. Mike headed out to a Marlins' game. I returned the BMW about 7. Sixt tried to tell me that they only had luxury cars and I'd have to take a BMW. I insisted that it was most uncomfortable to drive and that I didn't want one. When I said that I would try Enterprise or Hertz, a Toyota Camry suddenly appeared. Thank God - I was so happy to get into it - it was so familiar - I have a Corolla at home. I was back at the hotel in 20 minutes.

I decided to check our ferry reservations for Sunday morning - I had been unable to make a return reservation from San Juan Island - we could get over but not back. When I checked the schedule, about half the ferries were canceled due to lack of staff! No more reservations from Friday Harbor back to Anacortes were being accepted so that the cars that were there on the island could get back. Dear lord. I hated to tell Mairead, but she said that there had not been any trouble with staffing until California made Covid vaccines mandatory - there was threat of a walk out on Labor Day weekend but it never happened. So individuals are calling in sick which is disrupting the ferry schedules. Mairead wanted to keep the reservation over to San Juan Island and take our chances coming back, but I wasn't so keen. We finally decided to try to get walk on tickets to the 11ish ferry - there was a shuttle to take us around the island.  I would pick her up at 8:30 tomorrow morning.

Sunday morning was foggy and drizzly. Mairead piled the rest of her belongings into the car and we headed out for the Anacortes Ferry Terminal. It was about an hour and a half drive - the rain got stronger and the fog got heavier. We passed a lot of farming communities - I am always happy to see acres of planted fields, cattle, horses, farm stands. We decided to skip the ferry altogether - what could we see in the fog? We decided to have breakfast when we reached Anacortes. We stopped at Island Cafe on the main drag - it was a nice clean place - staff wearing masks. But there was so much food! I had a veggie omelet - I ate about half.  I had a couple of bites of the hash browns - and did eat the English muffin. I left a plateful of food behind me I'm sorry to say. 

Random woman outside the cafe.

The bookstore Mairead wanted to check out was closed so we consoled ourselves with donuts from the Donut House - it is famous for the size and variety of the donuts - they usually have to close early because they sell out. We each got one -  I got a Bavarian Cream - like a huge Boston Cream - and took them with us to eat later for lunch! 




We headed out to Washington Park where Mairead had been before - we were driving along the coast but the fog was hanging in there. The houses along the coast are spectacular - but they are not mansions like down the Cape - the architecture is mostly that modern boxy look so popular out here - I don't know the correct name for the style. They all have balconies with tables, chairs, grills, and most have shrubs and flowers - they reminded me of Europe - all the greenery. The railings around the porches are made from plexiglass! To keep out the wind? To let the sun in? I don't know.  Away from the coast there were some beautiful yards - not so much the manicured lawns of the Boston area - but more evergreens, shrubs and flowers that must have been gorgeous a few weeks ago. There were also areas that were not as nice - the architecture was older - more the type of house that has a triangular front if you get what I mean.

As we pulled into Washington Park, there were 2 baby deer at the entrance. A few cars were emptying  families who were dragging coolers and trays of food to 2 covered picnic areas - it must be lovely here on a sunny day as Mairead is telling me. There are several other picnic tables scattered around - none of them covered, a playground for the kids, a dock for boats to pull up to, and Fildago Bay right there. It was peaceful as we sat there - we could see the heads of several seals popping up and down in the water - several boats and ferries passed by. 

Mairead wanted to see Deception Pass - she and a coworker had driven down this way a few months ago but had to return before seeing the pass because of all the traffic. We were driving through wooded areas - up and down hills and curvy roads. We parked on the side of the road at the pass for a look - it was a deep gorge where the water was pretty rough. We saw a lot of small boats bobbing up and down, and people on the shore fishing - all beneath a trestle bridge. There were other cars parked on the side of the road but we didn't see any people - part of the parking area ahead of us was blocked off because of construction. We jumped back into the car and drove over the bridge - we saw where the people were - there is a walkway across the entire bridge with great views in either direction. Mairead's whale watching group had reported that there were orcas swimming under that bridge yesterday! We decided to pull over and walk onto the bridge but the parking area on that side of the bridge was closed so we continued on to Cornet Bay which is part of Deception Pass State Park.  

A link to a short video of Deception Pass is below - you can just see the trestle bridge at the end.

https://youtu.be/ahiYvZKa_dk


Here is a photo of the boats bobbing along.





Cornet Bay was lovely and peaceful - again picnic tables - restrooms with showers for the boaters I presume. Lots of flowers. I walked around a bit and then we sat just taking in the scenery.



Below is a link to a short video of Cornet Bay.

https://youtu.be/TOGxboiFfvs


Next we drove to Joseph Whidby State Park - Mairead thought it was a little shabby compared to the others but it also had great views. She walked down to the shoreline, but I decided the incline was too steep and the ground not so level. I walked above and just watched the people enjoying themselves, the ferries going by - just enjoyed being out in the fresh air. The fog was starting to lift - there was a cool breeze - I was feeling chilly despite a heavy sweatshirt.

We decided to head back to Anacortes and drove by the marina - it was a beautiful place - I thought we could eat supper there. We checked into our motel - The Sunrise Inn on 20th Street. Nice enough place - the room is bigger than we expected - 2 queen beds and a kitchenette. The room was on the 2nd floor - thank goodness I had packed my knapsack for the night - I didn't have to drag my suitcase up a flight of stairs.



Mairead wanted to go to the Fidalgo Drive-In Restaurant - she had been here once before. We pulled into a bay and pushed a button when we were ready to order. A guy came out and took our orders. A gal delivered them. Mairead ordered fish and chips that came with French fries and a cup of clam chowder - I had a halibut sandwich - we are in the Pacific Northwest - I have to eat halibut and salmon don't I? 




Mairead wanted to go back to Washington Park so we did. The fog had lifted - the sky was blue - there was still a cool breeze as we sat at a picnic table, ate, and looked for seals. 


Washington Park above and my halibut sandwich below - I couldn't open my mouth wide enough to take a bite so I took off the bottom of the bun.



There was one more stop Mairead wanted to make - Rosario Beach - it was back toward Deception Pass but not that far. After a couple of missteps, we found it. This was a lovely place - views on both sides - Mairead went down to the water while I was still walking over. We looked around and then just sat and relaxed. We finally decided to head back to Anacortes - I wanted to stop by that marina again before dark.












Below is a link to a short video of Rosario Beach.



We got back to the marina in Anacortes just before sunset. There is a lovely park at the marina - it is in memory of lost seamen and their families. The sculpture is of a wife holding a lantern aloft as she looks to the sea for her husband while a child clutches her leg. The park was beautiful but the light was fading and the pictures came out dark. 








Below is a link to a short video from Seafarers' Memorial Park.

https://youtu.be/Zbw1k66ROkE


We headed back to our motel - I think I was sound asleep in bed by 10 pm!! Must have been all that fresh air and walking!